The talesofasia guide to travel in Siem Reap and Angkor

Updated January 13, 2009

SIEM REAP ACCOMMODATION - GUESTHOUSES AND HOTELS

Siem Reap index page
Introduction
Getting there
Staying there
Options
Descriptions and recommendations
Other things... money, internet, etc
Eating and drinking
Temples
Other things to do and places to go in and around Siem Reap
Additional stories on the Siem Reap area

STAYING IN SIEM REAP

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Options

From $1 a night flophouse to $3000 a night luxury suites, Siem Reap has hundreds of accommodation choices offering every available option.

1.) Family-run guesthouses. Small and intimate, these are guesthouses by the true name. Quality of service is highly erratic. Some are charming little places, others are absolute nightmares, run by families who have not a clue what tourists want. Historically, these were the main if not only choice for accommodation in Siem Reap and most were known only by a number, i.e. Guesthouse 286. There aren't so many of these now as many have either gone out of business or have expanded by popularity into more of a full-service guesthouse, which at the end of the day, is what most people want, anyway. Advantages: can be friendly and intimate and offer much of a local experience. Disadvantage: Some are totally incompetent.

2.) Backpacker factories. These are some of the successful Khmer-run guesthouses that are full up with Lonely Planet-toting tourists. Advantages: Good at what they do. They know their clientele and if you fit the profile of the typical LP-toting backpacker you will probably like these places because they provide good assembly-line service and can sort out everything 99% of budget tourists need. Prices are competitive and by and large they know what you want. Disadvantages: Not nearly as local of an experience as you might think. The staff have seen thousands of westerners before you. Some of these places don't like competition and a few will go so far as to tell you that Siem Reap is dangerous at night so you'll stay in and drink all their beer and never venture away. Most have reasonable food though many have identical menus as they've all copied one another. If you want to do something out of the ordinary, they may get a little flustered, "oh my, very far, cannot do". They've all done well offering what is in essence a budget package tour, break off from the package and snafus can develop.

The motodrivers and the like that hang around these factories are truly professional. You very well may like the guy, he'll know how to get you around the temples efficiently and he'll probably speak pretty good English. Some of them are decent guys but they know every little trick in the book to extract a few extra pennies from you, which in itself is not a bad thing, but take some of what they say with a grain of salt as they know all the things to say to tourists to pull a few sympathy dollars out of you. Be skeptical when they tell you Hun Sen or the Vietnamese own the temples (absolutely false). Be skeptical when your 25-year-old driver tells you the Khmer Rouge killed his father (seeing as the Khmer Rouge fell in January 1979, unless there's immaculate conception from the afterlife, such a claim is an impossibility).

3.) Western-owned guesthouses. The big difference here is management style. The facility itself may be less local in design but may have many subtle touches that westerners like. That's not to say there aren't Khmer-run places capable of this, but we're talking generalizations here, and in that sense, there is a difference. And these places tend to be better sources of information as westerners are less likely to tell you what they think you want to hear. Still, the staff will almost always be Khmer so a western-owned guesthouse doesn't necessarily mean a non-local experience. Advantages: If the owner is around you can usually expect more accurate and honest information as to what Cambodia is all about and what do you really get for your money. You may also get better suggestions for some really out of the way places to visit and how to get there. These establishments are sometimes a better choice for more independent-minded tourists. Disadvantages: At the end of the day the profit goes into the hands of a foreigner and portions of it may or may not be sent out of the country. However, on the plus side, most of the smaller foreign-owned businesses tend to pay their staff more than the locals do (sometimes by two, even three times and more as much) and in general, treat them better, so in some respects it's a wash.

4.) Lower-to-mid-range villas. This is a new category. In the past year or so scores of 20 to 40-room villa style hotels offering rooms in the $15 to $35 range have opened up. Most of these places are built by people with far more dollars than sense and while offering clean, well-appointed rooms at a competitive price, service can be atrocious and I don't imagine the maintenance and cleanliness will last very long. Due to the glut in this market, many of these new facilities are offering commissions to airport taxi drivers of up to 50%, even 60% of the *total* room bill - not just one night, but the entire stay! Needless to say, this is totally out of hand and is creating a lot of problems from airport taxi drivers for businesses that won't pay this kind of money. Advantage: a clean, well-appointed room at a cheap price. Disadvantages: Utterly clueless management, scammy drivers and service.

5.) Mid-range. There is a lot to choose from in this category. There are rather generic-looking Chinese-style hotels, well-crafted totally unique chic guesthouses, and the Khmer-run monstrosities along the Airport Road targeting Asian package tours.

6.) Upper range. Scattered around Siem Reap are a few legitimate 4- and 5-star international-class hotels. Along the airport road are numerous rather sterile looking places geared towards Asian tour groups that no matter what they may claim are nothing above a 3-star and not worth whatever outrageous walk-in rate they may pitch.

Descriptions and recommendations

This is not a listing of every option in town, there are hundreds. Rather, these are places I either know something about personally or have heard enough comments good or bad to warrant a listing.

The areas of Siem Reap:

Airport Road: Most of the establishments on this road are mid-range (though many falsely purport to be 4- and 5-star), Khmer-owned, marketed primarily Asian package tours (Asian tourists, especially Japanese and Korean account for 60% of all Angkor visitors), are completely lacking in any kind of personality, and seemingly named by formula (temple + royalty + hotel). There are however, a few quality guesthouses tucked in between.

North end of Siem Reap/Road to Angkor: Closest to the temples, but still too far to walk. Siem Reap's most expensive options are here as well as a couple of excellent mid-range guesthouses.

West side of town between Achamean Street and Highway 6: Closer than the Airport Road but not quite close enough to downtown, a wide variety of budget guesthouses, many of the family-run variety, tucked down side streets as well as some good mid-range options.

East of the River: A wide range of accommodation stretching from the river to Psah Leau. While a little bit away from the center of town, there is a concentration of guesthouses at the top end of Wat Bo Road near Highway 6 as well as some mid and upper-range accommodation not available in the Old Market Area. Farther out near Psah Leau, more of the monstrosities seen on the way to the airport are now appearing here as well.

Old Market Area: Most of the accommodation in this area is budget and mid-range, with one or two high-end hotels tucked in between. This is the best location for access to the bars, restaurants and Siem Reap's emerging nightlife though keep in mind this area can be noisy and as Siem Reap is a small town, no place is really far from anywhere. High rents have pushed out some of the cheaper options.

Budget:

Bou Savy Guesthouse - Friendly, family-run guesthouse off Highway 6 near the Caltex. Rooms from $5 to $15, free breakfast, free welcome drink. Comfortable villa in a garden style atmosphere. 16 rooms. Khmer-owned. Good reviews.

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Dead Fish Tower Inn - An extremely eclectic and unusual restaurant and bar that recently expanded to offer rooms. Centrally located. The decor of the rooms and the bar/restaurant definitely make this a place worth checking out. 20 rooms from $5-30. Thai-owned.

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Earthwalkers - Well run with good reviews from guests, but not centrally located. $5-20 per night. Down a side road off of Airport Road. Swimming pool. Food available. Full tourist services and more. Apsara dancing. Recommended. Western-owned.

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Five Star Angkor Villa - Budget guesthouse south of the Old Market. Bar and restaurant. Full tour services. Good Value, Rooms from $10-25.

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Garden Village Guesthouse - Family-style guesthouse. Budget accommodation. Friendly place if not a little out of the way. Food available. Internet. Sunset Bar. Cheap. Khmer-owned.

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Golden Temple Villa - 40-room guesthouse near the Old Market Area. Full tourist services, restaurant, internet. Rooms have A/C, TV, full bath. Good value. $8-30. Khmer-owned.

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Home Sweet Home Guest House - Long standing budget guesthouse in Wat Bo Village area. 55 rooms from $7 to $25. Good value. Khmer-owned.

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Ivy 2 Guesthouse - Located near the river a couple blocks from Psah Chas. Offers en suite fan rooms from $6, recently renovated and expanded offering more rooms, outdoor bar, pool table. etc. Same menu as the original Ivy. Western-owned.

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Jasmine Lodge - On the Airport Road not too far from town near the Caltex. 47 rooms from $6-20. Full tourist services. Breakfast. Expanded in 2008. Khmer-owned.

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Mandalay Inn and Villa - Near the Old Market. 33 rooms. Full tourist services. Restaurant. Excellent reviews. Rooms $12-20. Burmese-owned.

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Mom's Guesthouse - Another of Siem Reap's original guesthouses (1992). 30 comfortable A/C rooms, $15-25, fan rooms from $6. Well-known. Full range of tourist services. Wat Bo Road. Khmer-owned.

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Rosy Guesthouse - Overlooking the river. Cozy place with a full bar and restaurant. Full tourist services, clean, spacious rooms. Dorms at $3. Rooms from $8 to $16. A/C, hot showers, etc. Western-owned and managed.

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Two Dragons Guesthouse & Restaurant - Immaculately clean. Wat Bo Village area. 14 rooms from $17-27 with A/C, hot water, cable TV, free WiFi internet access, free coffee/tea. Excellent source of information, very knowledgeable western owner. Relaxed atmosphere. Book exchange. Reliable drivers. Tonle Sap tours. Thai/Khmer restaurant. Western/Thai owned.

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Midrange:

Dead Fish Tower Inn - An extremely eclectic and unusual restaurant and bar that recently expanded to offer rooms. Centrally located. The decor of the rooms and the bar/restaurant definitely make this a place worth checking out. 20 rooms from $5-30. Thai-owned.

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Golden Orange Hotel - Very clean 40-room hotel. Quiet but central location. A/C and ceiling fans, mini-bar, CATV, hot water in all rooms; some with Jacuzzi style bathtub. Restaurant open 6 am to 10 pm serving Western and Asian food. Garden Bar with pool table. Internet service. Tour Desk, gift shop. Balcony and customer lounge each floor. Western owned. Website Special, all rooms $30 with breakfast included.

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Le Tigre de Papier la Residence Hotel - New boutique hotel, special introductory rates from $25. 20 rooms, pool, bar, restaurant. Western-owned.

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Molly Malone's - Twelve tastefully decorated rooms from $20-45. Roomy Irish Pub, food, live entertainment. Central location in Old Market area. Western-owned.

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Mom's Guesthouse - Another of Siem Reap's original places to stay (1992). 30 comfortable A/C rooms $15-25. Well-known. Full range of tourist services. Wat Bo Road. Khmer-owned.

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Passaggio Hotel - Centrally located 100 meters from the Old Market, 17 spacious, spotlessly clean rooms and suites with A/C, bathroom with hot/cold shower, cable TV, mini-bar/fridge, free WIFI and Tea/Coffee facilities. Swimming-Pool. Swiss Managed. $30-70.

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Peace of Angkor Villa - On a quiet side street north of Route 6 east of the river. Proprietor is quite a photographer and can be very helpful to other photographers. Sponsors photo tours. Rooms from $20. British-owned.

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Soria Moria Hotel - New place, east of the river. Rooftop bar with great views, fusion restaurant (Scandinavian-Khmer cuisine), spa, tour facilities, good information, responsibly run. $45-70. Norwegian-owned.

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Two Dragons Guesthouse & Restaurant - Immaculately clean. Wat Bo Village area. 14 rooms from $17-27 with A/C, hot water, cable TV, free WiFi internet access, free coffee/tea. Excellent source of information, very knowledgeable western owner. Relaxed atmosphere. Book exchange. Reliable drivers. Tonle Sap tours. Thai/Khmer restaurant. Western/Thai owned.

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Villa Siem Reap - Renovated 18-room villa near Center Market. Large bright well-appointed rooms. Western food. $15-45. Day tours available. Good reviews. Western-owned.

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Upper:

Angkor Village - Up-market bungalow style hotel. Good reviews. East of the river not too far from the Old Market. 52 rooms (14 budget, 38 deluxe) Rooms from $66-200 depending on season. Western-owned.

Amansara - If you're surfing the net looking for a place to stay you'll probably not be staying here, but it's one of the most expensive resorts in town offering a dozen suites from $600 to $775 a night. Rate includes a guide and a driver, breakfast, plus either lunch or dinner. Alcohol excluded. Western-owned.

FCC - On a choice strip of land along the river and adjacent to the King's Residence, the FCC brings the style and taste of the Amansara down to a more affordable level. Rooms start at $90.

Grand Hotel d'Angkor - The original Grand. Everything and anything. But at a price. 136 rooms. Rack rates from $300 and up up up up up! Internet rates from $210.

Hotel de la Paix - Latest entrant into the five-star category. Brand-new art deco style building near downtown.

Shinta Mani - Centrally located boutique hotel on a quiet side street with 18 finely appointed rooms. Fine dining, spa. Includes Institute of Hospitality - a training center for students from impoverished backgrounds. Rooms from $144.

Sofitel Royal Angkor - Everything and anything. 239 rooms. Rack rates from $280 and up up up up up! Internet rates from $190, sometimes down to $132. Part of the Accor Group (French).

Ta Prohm Hotel - The best of the Old Market area digs. 100 rooms. Internet rates from $39-114. Khmer-owned.

Other things... money, internet, etc.

Free internet - We can confirm that the following establishments offer free WiFi internet access and rooms under $30 US per night (apologies for any ommissions): Golden Orange, Molly Malone's, Peace of Angkor, Rosy, Two Dragons, Villa Siem Reap.

Room security - While Siem Reap is a safe place, robbery from rooms does occur from time to time. If you are staying on the ground floor of a guesthouse, pay careful attention to the windows. Many guesthouses will have locking windows and screens, separated by metal grating. Though the metal grating will prevent someone from entering your room it won't stop them from using assorted implements attached to a stick to remove small but valuable items (wallet, telephone, etc) from your room while you sleep. If you sleep with the glass window open, then be sure that no valuables that could fit through the metal grating are visible. Even if the screen windows can be locked (many cannot) this still doesn't prevent someone from cutting the screen to reach your valuables.

See also the Introduction for additional safety precautions.

Money - Don't bother changing for riels. You'll get what you need in change. The US dollar is the de facto currency in Cambodia and most prices are quoted in dollars. Thai baht can be spent here but the rates are generally not favorable. Most of the Khmer-businesses give okay rates on baht, but many western-owned establishments especially of the bar and restaurant variety offer atrocious rates of 40 and even 45 to 50 baht to the dollar. If you have baht, you would do better to change some in town rather than try to spend it as you go.

The best place to change money is at any of the number of money changers scattered around town. There is always a concentration around the markets. Rip-offs are rare. More common currencies (Japanese yen, euros, Aussie dollars, Brit pounds, Thai baht) usually pose no difficulties, though rates may vary slightly from changer to changer and a little bargaining is sometimes necessary. However, the more obscure the currency is, the less likely the money changer will know the actual rate nor be willing to offer a fair rate as it may be more difficult for them to reconvert the notes later. It's also been my experience that the money changers will offer a better rate than the hotels regardless of what currency you're changing. Banks are generally not in the currency changing business here and don't be surprised if they send you out to a street money changer if you try.

ATMs that accept international cards and dispense US dollars are all over the place, there are several in the Old Market area and several more scattered about town. Alternatively, the old-fashioned system of getting cash off a Visa or Master Card via a bank remains an option - and this can be done at any number of local banks with rates at around 2% or $5, whichever is greater. There is also a Western Union near the intersection of Sivatha and Route 6 next to the old police station.

For what it's worth, which isn't much, the riel exchanges at about 4,000 riels to one US dollar. The currency in non-convertible and any riels you leave the country with will become souvenirs.

Condition of money - For Cambodian riels you will see some bills so worn and torn you might have trouble figuring out what denomination it is. US dollars, however, are a different story. Though in general the acceptance of overly worn money isn't as problematic as it used to be (don't know why, really), in general, the higher the denomination of the bill, the more condition matters with rips in particular the biggest barrier to passing off a bill. For US $50s and $100s you'd do well to make sure all your bills are prisitne and new. $20s can be a bit ugly, but shouldn't have any rips, a minor rip in a $10 probably won't keep you from spending it but a big rip will. $1s and $5s nobody cares for the condition, but watch for large rips.

Also becoming problematic are what they call "small portrait" bills. This is the older US currency design where the portraits are smaller (mid 1990s I believe is when they were replaced?). 5s and 10s are spendable without too much fuss, 20s can be a little difficult to spend and 50s and 100s can be quite difficult to spend as quite a few businesses will flat out not accept them and two of the three counterfeits I have seen, or bills I was 90% sure were counterfeits, were "small portrait" notes.

Why so difficult to spend worn or torn bills? Two reasons. One of course, is improved counterfeiting technologies. As banks are scrutinizing money much more carefully than before, a lot of businesses are becoming much more careful about the money they accept. The second reason is that as the US dollar is not an official currency there is no central bank to clear out old bills so as they become excessively worn they eventually become worthless.

The best course of action is to see that your US dollars are new and crisp. Then everyone will be happy to accept them.

If you are receiving money from a bank or money changer, check every bill and don't be shy to turn one back if you don't like the appearance of it. And don't assume because you got cash from an ATM that the notes are fine. Knowing that residents will hand back questionable bills, banks often put their dodgiest money in the ATMs thereby dumping them on tourists who might not know any better.

Internet - Internet shops are all over the place. Most charge around $0.75 to $1.00 an hour and the connections range from fairly fast to downright shitty. Actually, the connections are pretty much the same everywhere in town, the problem is that most of the businesses do not know how to maintain their equipment as most of them simply copied the business plan of their neighbor three doors down the street.

If you have a laptop there's free Wi-Fi at the Blue Pumpkin, Molly Malone's, the FCC, Rosy, Two Dragons, and the Warehouse.

Hiring a motorbike - You can't. Tourists are not permitted to rent and operate motorbikes anywhere in Siem Reap province. If you see a foreigner on a motorbike, chances are they live here and are exempt from the ban. Siem Reap is a small town, for the most part the police know who does and doesn't live here and the law is usually enforced only around the temples, anyway. For more information on the history of this on-again off-again rule, read this.

Shopping - The Old Market area has numerous chic handicraft and souvenir shops and more seem to be opening up every month. Most of these are western-owned and offer a rather interesting selection of locally-produced items. The market itself is home to dozens of Khmer-owned souvenir stalls that all offer pretty much the same cheap assortment of t-shirts, postcards, and bric-a-brac, much of it made not in Cambodia but in Thailand, Malaysia, or China. For something unique, head to one of the boutique shops, for a simple Angkor Wat t-shirt or a few postcards, try out the market. And if you must purchase one of those stupid land mine shirts (and do ask yourself why you want to do this), please wait until you've left the country to put it on. Artisans d''Angkor is definitely worth checking out. The new Night Market should also be on your agenda.

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